I started off my Luke pants trial and error with McCall’s 6901. I followed the instructions and made a tissue paper muslin with it first. It was…strange. I don’t understand how you’re supposed to judge how fabric will hug the contours of your body using a piece of paper. I use that method sometimes for judging length or other simple stuff but fitting pants this way didn’t click for me. I ended up making a fabric muslin from the paper muslin. The fit wasn’t what I was going for, it was baggy and just generally icky. It would have taken a while to get the alterations right so I made the call to scrap them and start fresh.
I finally decided to make a pattern off a pair of my jeans. I laid down a layer of foam core large enough for my pants to fit on and rolled my pattern paper out over that. With everything secured in place I started pinning through the pants, paper and into the foam along the seams of my pants as though I were pinning a specimen open for dissection. Apologies for the imagery. I didn’t take pictures so I have to paint one in the garden of your mind. Anyway, I pinned pretty frequently along the seams all the way around the leg piece while it was completely flat (only works for the front). When I took the pins out I had a pattern of the pants front. I used a pencil and a french curve to connect the pin holes in the paper. After drawing in my seam allowances my pattern was ready to go. I did the back the same way but it was a little trickier since you can’t lay out the entire piece flat at one time. Also, I had to put a riding seam in it so the back was split into two pieces.
I made a muslin with some twill I had on hand and ended up with what you see below.
The fit is still a bit off but I attribute some of it to the lack of stretch in the twill. My pants I made the pattern from stretch and so does the wool blend I’ll be using for the final pants so I imagine it’ll fit better in the wool.